New York, Free Press, 2012
291 pages Biography
Craig Claiborne was a food writer and
critic for the New York Times from the mid 1950s until the mid 1980s. Although
relatively unknown today, he changed the way Americans thought about food and restaurant
fare and helped create a new generation of chefs who developed the epicurean climate
that exists today in magazine, television, and books as well as on our dinner tables.
Thomas McNamee tells Claiborne's story in the biography, The Man Who
Changed the Way We Eat. The subtitle: Craig Claiborne and the American Food
Renaissance just about tells it all. This is a straightforward biography--chronological,
and tightly scripted. It speaks of Claiborne’s childhood in Mississippi, the
son of a woman who ran a boarding house where good southern cooking was the
daily norm. He was educated at the University of Missouri and then at a
culinary school in Switzerland. He virtually willed himself into the job as
food critic of the New York Times. One of his first articles was a condemnation
of the culinary arts of the 1950s. It was on the front page of the New York
Times in 1959. The article caused a sensation and made his career.
Claiborne was a “king maker”; his say could make or break a
restaurant or a chef. This was before the days of “celebrity” chefs, the Food
Channel, or even Public Television’s cooking shows. Cook books, including the
Joy of Cooking were utilitarian. Claiborne changed all that. His endorsement of
Julia Child’s cookbook made her famous. He felt quite strongly that chefs
needed to be grounded in classic cooking before they could take off on their
own ideas “to be innovative to the limits of their imaginations.” He loved all
the cooking of the world and loved serving and eating cuisines of various
cultures in one meal. He was a great cook in his own right and a wonderful
host. He also enjoyed taking friends and co-workers out for meals, trying out
new restaurants, or having favorite dishes at favorite restaurants. Much of
what we have in our American cupboards and refrigerators today came about
because Claiborne wrote about it—garlic, cilantro, fresh ginger, goat cheese,
basil, pine nuts, arugula, balsamic vinegar, macadamia nuts. He even endorsed
the salad spinner. Certainly these were things unknown to me as I began to cook
in the 1960s, and certainly they were unknown to most Americans.
When his career at the New York Times ended, much of who
Craig Claiborne was ended as well. His heart began to fail; he descended into
alcoholism and self-pity. He died in 2000 at the age of 80. McNamee
says of his life: “He had lived as he
had wished to live, had led his fellow Americans into vast new realms of
enjoyment, and had had a lot of fun along the way, his way.”
Craig Claiborne was a complex person, and McNamee touches on
many of his complexities, but perhaps in too straightforward a way. Much of the
speculation about Claiborne’s propensities and peculiarities remain just that,
with very little exploration of what really made the man tick. The review of The Man Who Changed The Way We Eat in
the Los Angeles Times notes that Claiborne was: “Almost unfailingly helpful to
others but utterly ambitious. Prim and proper but given to raging fits when
drunk. A man who treasured his friendships yet ended up alienating almost
everyone close to him. Someone who delighted in socializing with the chefs he
covered but basically invented the ethical rules for restaurant critics.” The
same reviewer suggests that McNamee didn’t attempt to understand any of these
characteristics of the man. Much of the book depends on the reminiscences of Diane
Franey, the daughter of Claiborne’s business partner, Pierre Franey, a chef and
cookbook author. Some of what is missing in the book are the recollections of
people at the New York Times. That would have been helpful.
My mother was a good cook, although not a brilliant one. She
kept lots of recipes and tried out ones that she found in the newspaper and in
magazines. She prided herself on serving well-prepared meals for guests. We
never had TV dinners, and only occasionally had Banquet Chicken Pot Pies. I
will never forget going to visit some friends for a Sunday dinner. The wife
served frozen pot pies over mashed potatoes and my mother was a bit miffed
about it. She commented on the way home that she would never do something like
that. But, in the 1950s, a frozen chicken pot pie was a new “delicacy,” and I
think that the wife thought she was serving us something special. What would
Craig Claiborne have to say about that!
You might want to check out my posting about Taste What You’re Missing by Barb Stuckey. It discusses the scientific aspects of good food.
A review of The Man who Changed The Way We Eat in The Los
Angeles Times: http://www.latimes.com/entertainment/news/la-ca-thomas-mcnamee-20120520,0,4240373.story
A blog posting by Thomas McNamee in the Huffington Post: http://www.huffingtonpost.com/thomas-mcnamee/famous-food-critic_b_1497904.html